Senin, 31 Maret 2008

Outdoor Club Links

The Outdoor Gear Exchange proudly links to these Outdoor Organizations. We feel it is important to help preserve
our natural wildlife, hiking trails, climbing routes and the fresh air we breath. Face it. It's not as much fun to climb a
skyscraper as it is a mountain.
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Rabu, 26 Maret 2008

Indoor training equipment

Various items of equipment are employed during climbing-specific training.

Grip savers

A small device that can help in developing the antagonist muscles to those used while gripping with the hand. Use of such a device can prevent the ligament injuries that are frequently experienced by climbers.


Fingerboards

An apparatus chiefly used for improving grip strength and practicing grip techniques. They generally consist of a variety of different-sized pockets and ridges that one may hang from, or upon which pull-ups can be performed. These are usually mounted above a doorway, or anywhere that allows the user's body to hang freely. Also called hangboards.

Campus boards

A series of horizontal rungs attached to an overhanging surface that may be climbed up and down without the aid of the feet. When used properly, campus boards can improve finger strength and so-called "contact strength".

Bachar ladder

A ladder made by stringing large diameter PVC piping on webbing and climbed without using the feet. Improves overall upper body strength as well as core strength when used well.
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Selasa, 25 Maret 2008

Protection devices

Protection devices, collectively known as rock protection or pro, provide the means to place temporary anchor points on the rock. These devices may be categorized as passive (nuts, Hexentrics, etc.) or active spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs).


Nuts
Nuts are manufactured in many different varieties. In their simplest form, they are just a small block of metal attached to a loop of cord or wire. The most popular styles are tapers and hexcentrics. They are sometimes referred to by the slang term, wires.

Nuts are used by simply wedging them into narrowing cracks in the rock, then giving them a tug to set them.

Hexcentrics

Hexcentrics, usually called hexes, are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with tape. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of sizes varying from about 10mm thick to 100mm wide. Sides may be straight or curved.



Spring loaded camming devices

These consist of three or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, in such a way that pulling on the shaft connected to the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. The SLCD is used like a syringe, by pulling the cams via a "trigger" (a small handle) which forces them closer, inserting it into a crack or pocket in the rock, and then releasing the trigger. The springs make the cams expand and grip the rock face securely. A climbing rope may then be attached to the end of the stem via a sling and carabiner.

Tricams

A Tricam is a passive or active device consisting of a shaped aluminium block attached to a length of tape (webbing). The block is shaped so that pulling on the tape makes it cam against the crack, gripping the rock tighter. It requires careful placement so that it does not loosen when not loaded. It is generally not as easy to place or remove as a SLCD but is much cheaper and lighter, and is the only thing that will work in some situations like quarry drill-holes and limestone pockets. The smaller sizes can work well in old piton scars. They can also be used Passively as nuts.
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Ascenders

Ascenders are mechanical devices for ascending on a rope. They are also called Jumars, after a popular brand.

Jumars perform the same functionality as friction knots but are stronger, faster, safer and less effort is needed to use them. A Jumar employs a cam which allows the device to slide freely in one direction but tightly grip the rope when pulled on in the opposite direction. To prevent a jumar from accidentally coming off the rope, a locking carabiner is used. The Jumar is first attached to the climber's harness by a piece of webbing or sling, and then the Jumar is clipped onto the rope and locked. Two ascenders are normally used to climb a fixed rope. For climbing a fixed rope attached to snow anchors on a steep slope, only one Jumar is used as the other hand is used for holding the ice axe.


Another type of ascender allows rope to feed in either direction, slowly, but locks up when pulled quickly. Such self-locking devices allow people to protect solo climbs because the amount of rope is automatically adjusted.
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Rappel devices (descenders)

These devices are friction brakes which are designed for descending ropes. Many belay devices can be used as descenders, but there are descenders that are not practical for belaying, since it is too difficult to feed rope through them.


Figure eight

Sometimes just called "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender, but may also be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment.

It is an aluminium (or occasionally steel) "8" shaped device, but comes in several varieties. Its main advantage is efficient heat dissipation. A square eight, used in rescue applications, is better for rappelling than the traditional 8. Because of the "ears" or "wings" on the rescue 8, there is less chance of forming a girth hitch whilst rappelling very quickly.

Figure eights allow fast but controlled descent on a rope. They are easy to set up and are effective in dissipating the heat caused by friction but have a tendency to put a twist in the rope. Holding the brake hand off to the side twists the rope, whereas holding the brake hand straight down, parallel to the body, allows a controlled descent without twisting the rope. Because of the many bends it puts into the rope, an 8 descender can wear a rope quicker than a tube style belay/rappel device. Many sport climbers also avoid them because of the extra bulk an 8 puts on the rack. However, many ice climbers prefer to use the 8, because it is much easier to thread with stiff or frozen rope.

Rescue eight

A rescue eight is a variation of a figure eight, with "ears" or "wings" which prevent the rope from "locking up" or creating a girth hitch, thus stranding the rappeller on the rope. Rescue eights are frequently made of steel, rather than aluminium.

Rack

This consists of a 'U' shaped frame, attached to the belayer's harness, into which snap multiple bars that pivot from the other side of the frame. The rope is woven through as many of the bars as are required to provide sufficient friction. This arrangement allows for variations in rope diameter and condition, as well as controlled rate of descent.

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Belay devices


These are mechanical friction brake devices used when belaying. They allow careful control of the belay rope. Their main purpose is to allow locking off of the rope with minimal effort. Many types of belay devices exist, and some of these may additionally be used as descenders, for controlled descent on a rope, that is, abseiling or rappeling.


There are passive camming devices and active camming devices. Passive camming devices rely on the brake hand and a carabiner to lock off the rope. Sticht plates and the Air Traffic Controller ATC are examples of passive camming devices.

Active camming devices have a built-in mechanism that locks off the rope without the help of any other pieces of equipment. A GriGri is an example. The offset cam in the GriGri locks off the rope automatically to catch a falling climber, much like a seatbelt in a car locks off to hold a passenger securely. The GriGri fails at around 9 kN of force.

However, a GriGri, with its technology, often makes belayers become less vigilant. The GriGri is not a hands-free belay device. One mistake with the GriGri is reverse threading it. Reverse threading means to thread the GriGri the wrong way around, rendering the camming action useless. However, in a fall, with a reverse threaded GriGri, bending the rope sharply under the GriGri provides more than enough friction to hold a falling climber.

An example of traditional belay is the Body Belay or the Hip Belay, where the rope is wrapped around the body to provide enough friction to catch a climber. This is often used in Alpine climbing, where the routes are easy, and the belay must be fast.

Ice climbers often use a boot belay, where the rope is wrapped around one boot, thus providing friction.
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Harnesses

A harness is used for attaching the rope to a person. Most harnesses used in climbing are worn around the pelvis, although other types are used occasionally.


Different types of climbing warrant particular features for harnesses. Sport climbers typically use minimalistic harnesses, some with sewn-on gear loops. Alpine climbers often choose lightweight harnesses, perhaps with detachable leg loops. Big wall climbers generally prefer padded waist belts and leg loops. There are also full body harnesses for children, whose pelvises may be too narrow to support a harness appropriately. These harnesses prevent children from falling even when inverted, and are either manufactured for children or constructed out of webbing. Some climbers use full body harnesses when there is a chance of inverting, or when carrying a heavy bag. There are also chest harnesses, which are used only in combination with a sit harness; this combination provides the same advantages as a full body harness. However, test results from UIAA show that chest harnesses can put more impact on the neck than sit harnesses, making them slightly more dangerous to use.

Apart from these harnesses, there are also caving and canyoning harnesses, which all serve different purposes. For example, a caving harness is made of tough waterproof and unpadded material, with dual attachment points. Releasing the maillon from these attachment points loosens the harness quickly.

Canyoning harnesses are somewhat like climbing harnesses, often without the padding, but with a seat protector, making it more comfortable to rappel. These usually have a single attachment point of Dyneema.
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Quickdraws


Quickdraws (referred to as "draws" by many climbers) are used by climbers to attach ropes to bolt anchors or protection. They allow the rope to run through with minimal friction. A quickdraw consists of two non-locking carabiners connected by a short, pre-sewn loop of webbing. Alternatively, and quite regularly, the pre-sewn webbing is replaced by a sling of the pre-mentioned dyneema/nylon webbing. This is usually of a 60cm loop and can then be tripled over between the "krabs" to form a 20 cm loop. Then when more length is needed it can be made back into a 60cm loop offering more versatility than a pre-sewn loop. The carabiner meant for clipping into the protection generally has a straight gate, to decrease the possibility of the carabiner accidentally unclipping from the protection. The carabiner into which the rope is clipped often has a bent gate, so that clipping the rope into this carabiner can be done quickly and easily.
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Carabiners

Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates (openings), used as connectors. Almost all carabiners for recreational climbing are made from aluminum alloy.


Carabiners exist in various forms; the shape of the carabiner and the type of gate varies according to the use for which it is intended. There are two major varieties: locking and non-locking carabiners. Locking carabiners offer a method of preventing the gate from opening when in use. Locking carabiners are used for important connections, such as at the anchor point or a belay device. There are several different types of locking carabiners, including a twist-lock and a thread-lock. Non-locking carabiners are commonly found as a component of quickdraws.

Carabiners are made with many different types of gates including wire-gate, bent-gate, and straight-gate. The different gates have different strengths and uses. Most locking carabiners utilize a straight-gate. Bent-gate and wire-gate carabiners are usually found on the rope-end of quickdraws, as they facilitate easier rope clipping than straight-gate carabiners.

Carabiners are also known by many slang names including biner (pronounced beaner) and more commonly "Krab".

Steel carabiners are normally used by instructors when working with groups as they are harder wearing than aluminium alloy, but are much heavier.
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Rope, cord and webbing

Climbing ropes are typically of kernmantle construction, consisting of a core (kern) of long twisted fibres and an outer sheath (mantle) of woven coloured fibres. The core provides about 80% of the tensile strength, while the sheath is a durable layer that protects the core and gives the rope desirable handling characteristics.


Ropes used for climbing can be divided into two classes: dynamic ropes and static ropes. Dynamic ropes are designed to absorb the energy of a falling climber, and are usually used as Belaying ropes. When a climber falls, the rope stretches, reducing the maximum force experienced by the climber, his belayer, and his equipment. Static ropes stretch much less, and are usually used in anchoring systems. They are also used for abseiling (rappeling) and as fixed ropes to climb with ascenders.

Webbing is flat rope: it has no core. It is a versatile component of climbing equipment. Modern webbing is often made from dyneema, which is usually stronger and lighter than nylon,— while 12 mm dyneema slings have a tensile strength of around 22kN, a one-inch (25-mm) tubular climb-spec nylon webbing has a tensile strength of about 20 kN (4000 pounds)[1]. Webbing is usually tied (using a water knot or beer knot) or sewn into a loop and is then known as a runner or sling.

Runners have many uses, including anchor extension or equalisation, makeshift harnesses, carrying equipment and as a component of quickdraws.
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Dosen-Dosen Teknik Industri UII

R. Chairul Saleh

Ketua Jurusan Teknik Industri, Direktur Program Pascasarjana

Ir (Universitas Pembangunan Nasional "Veteran" Yogyakarta)

M.Sc. (Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia)

PhD. (Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia)

Professor

Certified SAP IHL Trainer



Agus Mansur

Sekretaris Jurusan Teknik Industri

S.T. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)

M.Eng.Sc. (University of New South Wales, Australia)

Certified SAP IHL Trainer





Elisa Kusrini

Sekretaris Program Pascasarjana

Ir. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)

M.T. (Institut Teknologi Bandung)






Budi Astuti

Ir. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)

M.T. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)






Eskartrimurti

Dra. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)

MM. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)







Hartomo

Ir. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)

M.Sc. (Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia)

Certified SAP IHL Trainer






Hudaya

Wakil Dekan

Ir. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)

MM. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)






Imam Djati Widodo

Drs. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)

M.Eng.Sc. (University of New South Wales, Australia)

Certified SAP IHL Trainer






Ira Promasanti Rachmadewi

Ir. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)

M.Eng. (University of Toronto, Canada)

Certified SAP IHL Trainer






Mardin Idris

Drs. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)

MSI (Universitas Islam Indonesia)






R. Abdul Jalal

Drs. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)

MM. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)







Sunaryo

Ir. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)

MP. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)







Taufiq Immawan

S.T. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)

MM. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)







Yuli Agusti Rochman

S.T. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)

M.T. (Kandidat, Universitas Gadjah Mada)

Certified SAP IHL Trainer






Winda Nurcahyo

S.T. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)

M.T. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)


M. Ibnu Mastur
Drs. (Universitas Gadjah Mada)
MSIE (Institut Teknologi Bandung)


Hari Purnomo
Ir. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)
M.T. (Institut Teknologi 10 Nopember Surabaya)
Dr. (Universitas Udayana)


Ali Parkhan
Ir. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)
M.T. (Institut Teknologi 10 Nopember Surabaya)


Djaka Hartaja
Ir. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)
MM. (Universitas Islam Indonesia)


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Senin, 10 Maret 2008

Routes and grading

Grips come in different colours, those of the same colour often being used to denote a route, allowing routes of different difficulty levels to be overlaid on one another. Coloured tape placed under climbing holds is another way that is often used to mark different climbing routes. In attempting a given route, a climber is only allowed to use grips of the designated colour as handholds but is usually allowed to use both handholds and footholds of the designated colour and surface structures and textures of the "rockface" as footholds.


The grade (difficulty) of the route is usually a consensus decision between the builder of the route and the first few people who climb the route.

Many indoor climbing walls have people who are assigned to set these different climbing routes. These people are called route setters.

@ source : wikipedia
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Types of Walls for climbing

The simplest type of wall is of plywood construction, known colloquially in the climbing community as a 'woody', with a combination of either bolt-on holds or screw on holds. Bolt-on holds are fixed to a wall with iron bolts which are inserted through the hold, which will have specific bolt points, and then fixed into pre-allocated screw-threaded holes in the wall. Screw-on holds are, by contrast, usually much smaller, owing to the nature of their fixing. These holds are connected to the wall by screws which may be fastened anywhere on the wall's surface.


Other types of walls include slabs of granite, concrete sprayed on to a wire mesh, pre-made fiberglass panels, manufactured steel and aluminum panels, and textured fiberglass walls.

@ source=wikipedia.org
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History of wall climbing

The concept of the artificial climbing wall began in the UK. The first wall was created in 1964 at Leeds University by Don Robinson, a lecturer in Physical Education and founder of DR Climbing Walls, by inserting pieces of rock into a corridor wall. The first commercial wall was built in Sheffield, traditionally England's centre for climbing due to its proximity to the Peak District.
An outdoor climbing wall at the University of Bath, England
An outdoor climbing wall at the University of Bath, England


Gym climbing is becoming an increasingly popular urban sport and provides many people with the opportunity to try some aspects of the sport of rock climbing. Bouldering gyms focus on bouldering rather than roped climbing.

@source=wikipedia
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wall climbing

A climbing wall is an artificially constructed wall with grips for hands and feet, used for climbing. Some are brick or wooden constructions, but on most modern walls, the material most often used is a thick multiplex board with holes drilled into it. Recently, manufactured steel and aluminum have also been used. The wall may have places to attach belay ropes, but may also be used to practice lead climbing or bouldering.


Each hole contains a specially formed t-nut to allow modular hand holds to be screwed on to the wall. With manufactured steel or aluminum walls, an engineered industrial fastener is used to secure hand holds. The face of the multiplex board climbing surface is covered with textured products including concrete and paint and/or polyurethane loaded with sand. In addition to the textured surface and hand holds, the wall may contain surface structures such as indentions (incuts) and protrusions (bulges), or take the form of an overhang, underhang or crack.

Some grips are formed to mimic the conditions of outdoor rock, including some that are oversized and can have other grips bolted onto them.
@source :wikipedia
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Types of rock climbing

Rock climbing may be divided into two broad categories: free climbing and aid climbing.

* Free climbing requires the climber use only his/her bodily strength for upward progress. Commonly confused with "free-soloing" which means to climb without a rope. The essence of free climbing is that, although gear may be used to protect a climber in the event of a fall, the actual "climbing" is being done without the help of any artificial device.

* Aid climbing involves using artificial devices placed in the rock to support all or part of the climber's body weight, and is normally practiced on rock formations that lack the necessary natural features suitable for free climbing.

Other kinds of climbing:

* Lead climbing is a method of climbing in which the climber (here called the "leader") climbs a route from the ground up. To protect him/herself, the climber trails a rope which is managed by a belayer who remains on the ground or at an established anchor. As the leader climbs, he/she can either clip the trailed rope through pieces of traditional gear (cams, stoppers), placed in cracks, or clip the rope through gear already in place (bolts, pitons). If a climber falls while leading, he/she cannot comfortably sit back on the rope and be held by the belayer as in toproping (where the rope is anchored above the climber); rather, the leader will fall twice the distance between his/her position and the most recent piece of protection (a cam, stopper, bolt, etc.) that he/she clipped the rope through (assuming this piece of protection holds).
* Traditional Climbing, or "Trad" Climbing. In Trad Climbing, the leader uses mostly removable gear (and the occasional bolt placed on lead) to protect against falls. As in all forms of lead climbing, the climbing team (a leader and follower, or multiple followers) begins at the bottom of a climb and ascends to the top, the leader placing protective devices in the rock as he/she climbs. Once the leader is finished climbing, he/she establishes a belay. The follower then "follows" the route and removes all of the gear placed by the leader. It is important that the leader be proficient at placing Trad (or clean or natural) gear (cams, stoppers, hexes, tri-cams, etc.) because his/her safety depends upon the soundness of each individual gear placement. Placing trad gear on lead can be time-consuming and thus tiring, sometimes making routes feel harder than their rating. Trad climbing is generally practiced according to ethical principles, that dictate primarily natural gear placements be made. However, when "traditional" was first coined in U.S. climbing literature,[1] traditionalists of the day permitted themselves hand drilled bolts sometimes from delicate stances on lead when cams, stoppers, etc. were not possible to place. Some of the resulting traditional routes have long run outs between bolts, requiring a "bold" mentality. More important to the original traditionalists than bolting or not was the overall approach to climbing: no resting on the rope after falls, instead lowering to a stance or pitch beginning or even the ground for restart; no placing of protection from a top rope or rehearsing difficult moves over and over; and no fixing of ropes to high points (sieging) to return with aid for repeated tries. It is, with perhaps the exception of climbing with no rope and prior knowledge of a route Free-soloing, the purest form of climbing. Since the term traditional first emerged in U.S. climbing literature, its use has changed. Some, for example, now will call a climbing style "trad" only if no bolts are encountered, and may relax the old restraint of lowering off tension for restarts after a fall.
* Sport climbing is a type of lead climbing which involves the use of pre-placed permanent bolts for protection. This frees the leader from the need to carry and place traditional gear. The leader merely clips one side of a quickdraw (two carabiners connected by a loop of webbing) into a bolt and the other into the rope. A typical sport route will require the leader to carry between 6 and 12 quickdraws or "draws," one for each bolt in the string of bolts that protect the route. Sport Climbing, in essence, is focused more on the gymnastic aspects of climbing than the aesthetics or adventure. Sport routes are bolted with safety in mind and also because they generally (though not always) ascend faces that are not protectable by any other practical mean. Bolts, however, are not foolproof. The same stringence concerning safety found in Trad. climbing should apply to Sport climbing as well. In the case of a fall, sport climbers often rest on the rope and begin from where they are hanging, called "hang-dogging." Hard sport climbs often require that the climber literally rehearse every single move several times before he/she can complete a clean ascent (without falls).
* Top Roping involves suspending a rope from an anchor located at the top of a short climb. The climber ties into one end of the rope and is belayed by his belayer who manages the other end of the rope. The belayer can belay either from the top or base of the route. This is distinct from Lead climbing where the climber is not safeguarded by a rope attached to an anchor situated at the top of the route.
* Bouldering may be described as climbing short, severe routes on boulders or small outcrops. While safety ropes from above are occasionally used, most boulderers feel that the most ethical form of protection is a bouldering mat or pad similar to those used by gymnasts. In addition, other climbers standing on the ground may "spot" the boulderer, to help safely guide his or her fall.
* Indoor climbing is a form of climbing that can involve bouldering, top roping, and leading in an indoor environment on wood or plastic holds. For most it will be the easiest way to begin the sport.
* Free solo climbing: Usually describes free climbing without a rope or other protective gear. Free solo climbing is distinguished from solo climbing where a climber progressing alone uses a rope and protection devices including a self belay system.

@ source:wikipedia
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Rock climbing basics


Climbers usually work in pairs. One climber climbs with the other belaying. In lead climbing, the belayer feeds rope to the lead climber through a belay device. The leader climbs, occasionally placing protection or clipping preplaced bolted hangers, until the top is reached. The belayer is ready to "lock off" the rope in case the leader falls.


Both climber and belayer attach the rope to their climbing harness. The rope is tied into the climber's harness with a figure-of-eight loop or double bowline knot. The leader either places his own protection (Traditional climbing) or clips into permanent protection already attached to the rock (Sport climbing). In traditional climbing, the protection is removable. Usually nuts or Spring-loaded camming device (often referred to as "cams" or "friends") are set in cracks in the rock (although pitons are sometimes used). In sport climbing the protection is metal loops called bolts. Bolts are secured to the rock with either expanding masonry bolts taken from the construction industry, or by placing glue-in bolt systems. In ice climbing the protection is made-up of Ice Screws or similar devices hammered or screwed into the ice by the leader, and removed by the second climber.

The lead climber typically connects the rope to the protection with carabiners or quickdraws. If the lead climber falls, he will fall twice the length of the rope from the last protection point, plus rope stretch (typically 5% to 8% of the rope out), plus slack. If any of the gear breaks or pulls out of the rock or if the belayer fails to lock off the belay device immediately, the fall will be significantly longer. Thus if a climber is 2 meters above the last protection he will fall 2 meters to the protection, 2 meters below the protection, plus slack and rope stretch, for a total fall of over 4 meters.

If the leader falls, the belayer must arrest the rope to stop the fall. To achieve this the rope is run through a belay device attached to the belayer's harness. The belay device runs the rope through a series of sharp curves that, when operated properly, greatly increases friction and stops the rope from running. Some of the more popular types of belay devices are the ATC Belay Device, the Figure 8 and various auto-locking belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri

If the route being climbed is a multi-pitch route the leader sets up a secure anchor system at the top of the pitch, also called a belay, from where he can belay as his partner climbs. As the second climber climbs, he/she removes the gear from the rock in case of traditional climbing or removes the quickdraws from the bolts in the case of sport climbing. Both climbers are now at the top of the pitch with all their equipment. Note that the second climber is protected from above while climbing, but the lead climber is not, so being the lead climber is more challenging and dangerous. After completing the climb, and with both climbers at the top of the pitch, both climbers must rappel or descend the climb in order to return to their starting point. All climbs do not necessarily require the lead climber to belay the second climber from the top. The belayer could lower the lead climber down after he/she has completed a single pitch route.

Occasionally, climbers may decide to "move together", a risky but speedy technique also called simul-climbing, in which both leader and second move at the same time without stopping to belay. The leader - approximately a rope length above the second - usually places multiple pieces of protection as he climbs so that the weight of the second climber might arrest a possible leader's fall. Should the second climber to fall, however, the leader may be pulled from his holds, with potentially dangerous results.

@ source = wikipedia.org
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Some historical from 400BC to 2001

* 400 BC: Chinese watercolors that depict men climbing rocks.

* 1300's : The Anasazis in the southwest United States drilled holes for posts and carved steps up the steep rock cliffs in Chaco Canyon. There are cliff dwellings scattered throughout the southwest. Given the difficult approaches to some of these cliff dwellings it seems reasonable to assume that the natives had the skills necessary to ascend what would now be considered technical climbing terrain.


* 1492 : Antoine de Ville ascends Mont Inaccessible, Mont Aiguille, a 300 meter rock tower south of Grenoble, France. Under orders from his king, he used the techniques developed for sieging castles to attain an otherwise unreachable summit. The ascent is described by François Rabelais in his Quart Livre.[5]

* 1695 : Martin Martin describes the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in the Hebrides of Scotland, especially on St Kilda.[6]

* 1786 : The first ascent of Mont Blanc is often referred to as the start of mountaineering’s “modern era”. It took another century before history documents the use of devices similar to today’s fixed anchors: pitons, bolts and rappel slings.

* By the 1800s, climbing was developing as a recreational pastime. Equipment in the early 1800s began with an alpenstock (a large walking stick with a metal tip), a primitive form of three- point instep crampon, and a woodcutter's axe. These were the tools of the alpine shepherd, who was shortly to move from guiding sheep to guiding men, a much more lucrative enterprise. With time the alpenstock and the axe were combined into one tool: the ice-axe. Add a large, thick (and weak) rope, to help the client climb, and guide and novice were off to the mountains.[7]

* 1869 : John Muir, famed naturalist and climber, wearing hiking boots, makes the first ascent of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows as an on-sight, free solo. He is also known for spending a night at the top of a 100+ foot tall pine tree during a lightning storm, now known as the John Muir Tree.[8] [9]

* 1875 : Half Dome in Yosemite National Park is first climbed by George Anderson. He uses eye bolts in drilled holes as hand and toe holds. He uses a fixed rope to return to his high point each day.[10] [8] [9]

* 1880s : The Sport of Rock Climbing begins in the Lake District and Wales in Great Britain , Saxony near Dresden, and the Dolomites. W. P. Haskett Smith is frequently called the Father of Rock Climbing in the British Isles, and Oskar Schuster was an early climber at Elbsandsteingebirge.

* 1886 : W. P. Haskett Smith makes the first ascent (in free solo style) of the 70 foot Napes Needle, in the Lake District of England. The resulting publicity introduces the general British public to the new sport of rock climbing.

* 1887 : Georg Winkler, at the age of 17, makes the first ascent - solo - of Die Vajolettürme in the Dolomites, initiating the sport of rock climbing in that area.

* 1893 : Devils Tower is first summited by ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley through the use of wooden spike pounded into a crack and then connected with a rope. After 6 weeks they summited on the Fourth of July.[11] [8]

* 1897 : O. G. Jones leads Kern Knotts Crack (ca 5.8) on the Great Gable in England

* 1900 to 1910: German and Italian climbers make significant strides in developing special pitons, carabiners, and rope-handling techniques.

* 1906 : Oliver Perry-Smith, W. Huenig, Rudolf Fehrmann climb Teufelsturm in the Elbsandsteingebirge, 5.10 (with original shoulder stand around 5.8+).

* 1910 : Hans Fiechtl replaces the attached ring on pitons with an eye in the body of the piton which is a design used to this day.[12]

* 1910 : Otto Herzog designs the first steel carabiner, specifically made for climbing.[13]

* 1910 : Willo Welzenbach creates the standard numerical rating system for the amount of time typically needed to complete a route (Grades I to VI) [14]

* 1910 : Austrian development of rappelling.[15]

* 1910 : Oliver Perry-Smith, M. Matthaeus, H. Wagner ascend The Grosser Falknerturm, W. Route in the Elbsandstein, 5.9.

* 1910 to 1914 : Hans Dülfer suggests using equipment to ascend otherwise unclimbable rock, devises dulferitz rapelling technique.[16]

* 1914 : Paul Preuss, an advocate of Free climbing, coins the term "artificial aid" to describe the use of mechanical aids to progress up a rock. His rule number four (of six) stated: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering."[17]

*

Note: The two principal uses of pitons on an ascent were as protective safeguards (not used for actual hand or footholds - climbers refrained from putting weight on them except in the event of a fall) and as direct aid (used to physically assist in ascending a steep or overhanging slope rather than merely as protection). Climbers like Paul Preuss and Geoffrey Winthrop Young argued strongly against direct aid, but others of that era, including Hans Dülfer and Tita Piaz, advocated using such devices as artificial aids in order to climb otherwise unscalable walls. After World War I most European climbers chose to employ artificial aid when necessary. However, from the beginning days of rock climbing as a sport, through the 1940s, another form of artificial assistance was at times employed by teams of two or more climbers: the shoulder stand. From our current perspective it seems odd that many of those climbers who strenuously objected to hanging on a piton found the shoulder stand to be quite acceptable. Occasionally, historical climbing photos, (e.g., [1]) illustrate this strategy, which arose from the perception that ascending a route was a team effort, with two climbers constituting one natural climbing unit. Something to keep in mind when reading of very early climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.

* 1914 : Siegfried Herford and companions climb the Flake Pitch on Central Buttress of Scafell (5.9), England's hardest climb at the time

* 1919 : Sees the publication of Guido Rey’s book, "Alpinisme Acrobatique", on the "artificial" techniques utilizing the latest, easily available pitons and carabiners

* 1920s - 1930s : Robert Underhill and Miriam Underhill (Miriam E. O'Brien) - One of the early rock star climbing couples. Robert is remembered for introducing European climbing techniques to the west coast of the US through an article in the 1931 Bulletin of the Sierra Club.

* 1922 : Paul Illmer and party ascend the Illmerweg on Falkenstein (5.9/5.10), Elbsandstein

* 1925 : Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer climb the Northwest Face of the Civetta in a day, a 3800 foot 5.9 route in the Dolomites, using only 15 pitons for protection and belays.

* 1925 : Albert Ellingwood and a party of three climb the 2000 foot Northeast Buttress of Crestone Needle (5.7, 14,197 feet).

* 1927 : Laurent Grivel designs and sells the first rock drill and expansion bolt. [18]

* 1927 : Joe Stettner and brother, Paul, apply European techniques in the USA on their ascent of the Stettner Ledges on the East Face of Long's Peak. [8] [9]

* 1927 : Fred Pigott's experiments with slinging natural chockstones and later machine nuts, for protection at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on Snowdon, directly led to the development of the modern Stopper.[19]

* 1930 : Jack Longland climbs Javelin Blade (5.10), Hollytree Wall, Idwal

* 1931 : Emilio Comici and the Dolomites. Comici is the inventor and proponent of using multi-step aid ladders, solid belays, the use of a trail/tag line, and hanging bivouacs. Pretty much the origin of big wall climbing and techniques. He uses them to good purpose with an ascent of the 26 pitch, 4000 foot Northwest Face of the Civetta.[20]

* 1934 : Pierre Allain champions bouldering at Fontainebleau; climbs L'Angle Allain (V2)

* 1934 : Dick Leonard, teams up with Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson for the first ascent of the Eichorn Pinnacle of Cathedral Peak in the Sierra Nevada. He also creates the concept and practice of the dynamic belay at Indian Rock. [8]

* 1935 : Pierre Allain produces first soft-soled climbing shoe. Revised for extreme rock 1948

* 1938 : Ricardo Cassin ascends the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses "...perhaps the finest in existence" - Gaston Rebuffat from "The Mont Blanc Massif - The 100 Finest Routes".

* 1938 : North Face of the Eiger ascended by Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek, Andreas Heckmair and Wiggerl Vörg.

* 1939 : David Brower and the rest of his Berkeley crew use four bolts in the process of ascending Ship Rock in New Mexico. [8] [9]

* 1940s : World War II leads to the development of inexpensive army surplus pitons, carabiners and the newly-invented nylon rope.[21]

* 1946 : Rene Ferlet climbs Marie-Rose (V3) Fontainebleau

* 1946 : John Salathe, at the age of 46, attempts to rope-solo aid the first ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire, one of the most exposed features in Yosemite Valley. (The protection bolt he places on that attempt was the first, or one of the first, in the valley.) He is also known for his forged pitons made from the axle of a Model A Ford. [8] [9]

* 1952 : Lionel Terray ascends the Patagonian peak, Fitzroy, with his partner Guido Magnone.

* 1952 : Joe Brown makes the FA of Cenotaph Corner (5.10) Dinas Cromlech, Wales

* 1952 : John Streetly makes the FA of Bloody Slab (5.9) LLanberis Pass, Wales

* 1953 : Robert Paragot climbs Le Joker (V5) Fontainebleau

* 1954 : Joe Brown and Don Whillans climb the West Face of Aiguille de Blaitiere, including the famous Fissure Brown (5.11), in the Alps.

* 1955 : Walter Bonatti Considered one of the greatest climbs of all time, his solo first ascent of a new route on the Southwest Pillar of the Dru takes six days.

* 1955 : John Gill introduces chalk & modern dynamics; first V8 (1957), V9 (1959) ; freesolos FA Thimble overhang (5.12a) (1961) [8] [22]

* 1958 : Warren Harding and team climb the 3,000 foot Nose of El Capitan using siege tactics, taking a total of 45 days over an extended period. Almost entirely aid climbing, with many bolts (125), the climb is given world-wide recognition.

* 1961 : Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost ascend the 3,000 foot Salathe Wall on El Capitan. Continuous ascent by Robbins & Frost in 1962, [23].

* 1964 : Robbins, Pratt, Frost, and Yvon Chouinard climb the North American Wall on El Capitan, [23]

* 1967 : Pete Cleveland climbs Superpin in the Black Hills (5.11X) [8]

* 1968 : Royal Robbins solos the Muir Wall on El Capitan, [23]

* 1971 : Al Rouse climbs Positron (5.11) Gogarth, Anglesey

* 1971 : Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard design Hexcentrics. [8]

* 1974 - 1977 : Jim Holloway establishes - in Colorado - the hardest bouldering problems in the world, at the time. These include Slapshot (V13) and Meathook (V11), [22]

* 1976 : John Bachar initiates an era of free soloing with his ascent of New Dimensions 5.11a [8]

* 1977 : Pete Cleveland climbs Phlogiston, at Devil's Lake, 5.13a/b or V9 [8]

* 1978 : Ray Jardine invents the first modern spring loaded camming device (SLCD or cam)

* 1979 : Tony Yaniro climbs Grand Illusion, Sugarloaf (CA), 5.13b/c [8]

* 1970s : Sport Climbing is developed, in France

* 1980 : Boreal introduces the first "sticky rubber" shoe, the Fire

* 1980 : Bill Price climbs Cosmic Debris, Yosemite, 5.13b[8]

* 1983 : Alan Watts introduces sport climbing to the US, with Tots, 5.12b at Smith Rock, Oregon [8]

* 1985 : Wolfgang Gullich climbs Punks in the Gym, Mt. Arapiles, (some say the first 5.14a/b some say 5.13d)

* 1986 : Antoine Le Menestral climbs La Rage de Vivre, Buoux, (many credit this as the first 5.14a) [24]

* 1987 : Wolfgang Gullich climbs Wallstreet, Frankenjura, 5.14b

* 1990 : Ben Moon climbs Hubble, Raven Tor, 5.14c

* 1991 : Wolfgang Gullich climbs Action Directe, Frankenjura, 5.14d

* 1992 : John Middendorf and Xaver Bongard climb The Grande Voyage, in 18 days on the world's tallest sheer rock face, Great Trango Tower, Karakoram, considered the hardest big wall climb in the world. 5.10+,A4+,WI4

* 1994 : Lynn Hill makes the first free climbing ascent of the 3,000 foot Nose Route of El Capitan (~5.13). Although there had been many ascents of the Nose, none had been done entirely without artificial aid. For years this had been the most coveted goal in the world of rock climbing. [8]

* 1995 : Fred Rouhling climbs Akira, Charente, ~5.15

* 1998 : Bernabe Fernandes climbs Orujo, Malaga, ~5.15

* 2001 : Chris Sharma climbs Realization, Ceuse, ~5.15 [25]

@source = wikipedia.org
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History of rock climbing

Although the practice of rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in at least three areas: Elbsandsteingebirge, in Saxony near Dresden [1], the Lake District of England [2], and the Dolomites in Italy [3]. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right, making it imprudent to cite a primogenitor of the latter in each of these three locales. Nevertheless, there is some general agreement on the following:


* Heralded as a sport in England in the late 1880s after the (well publicised) solo first ascent of the Napes Needle by Walter Parry Haskett Smith, rock climbing attracted increasing numbers of participants. An early benchmark approaching modern levels of difficulty was the ascent, by O. G. Jones, of Kern Knotts Crack (VS) in 1897. Jones was attracted to the new sport by a photo of the Needle in a shop window in the early 1890s. By the end of the Victorian era as many as 60 enthusiasts at a time would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacation periods [4].

* Inspired by the efforts of late 19th century pioneers such as Oskar Schuster (Falkenstein, Schusterweg 1892), by 1903 there were approximately 500 climbers active in the Elbsandstein region, including the well-known team of Rudolf Fehrmann and the American, Oliver Perry-Smith; their 1906 ascent of Teufelsturm (at VIIb) set new standards of difficulty. By the 1930s there were over 200 small climbing clubs represented in the area [1].

* The solo first ascent of Die Vajolettürme in 1887 by the 17 year-old Munich high school student, Georg Winkler, encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in the Dolomites[3].

As rock climbing matured, a variety of grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years both climbing techniques and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport have evolved in a steady fashion.@ source :wikipedia.org
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Jumat, 07 Maret 2008

Tebing Spikul

Tebing Spikul Punya Cerita
Oleh: Sotar Sadewa

Tebing spikul yang beralamatkan di daerah Watulangu, Kec. Watulimo, Kab. Trenggalek RT.10/RW.03 dan untuk lebih jelasnya langsung aja menghubungi Pak Sunardi (085696418418) atau Pak Kamidi selaku kepala RT setempat.

Dan untuk rute perjalanannya dari Jogja St.Lempuyangan – St.Kertosono – St.Tulungagung – naek bis ke Durenan – Sripit – Watulagung. Atau jika tidak dari St.Tulungagung langsung menuju ke Mapala Himalaya di STAIN Tulungagung dan dari sana nanti baru melanjutkan ke Trenggalaek.

Tebing Spikul merupakan tebing dengan jenis batuan andesit. Tebing ini berada di daerah pegunungan yang dimana penduduk sekitarnya sebagian besar menambang batu yang berada di sekitar tebing. Didaerah tebing spikul sendiri banyak ditanami tanaman singkong, pisang, dan sedikit pinus. Ini adalah sekilas tentang tebing Spikul.

Tebing Spikul yang dulu dikenal dengan nama gunung Jadah lagi-lagi membuat cerita. Sebenarnya sudah banyak cerita dari tebing ini, namun kali ini kembali lagi digaungkan oleh tim panjat tebing dari Mapala Unisi...

Saya mulai mengenal panjat tebing sejak masuk di organisasi Mapala Unisi. Dari sinilah awal mula saya banyak melakukan kegiatan di alam. Banyak pelajaran yang saya dapatkan, baik dari segi teknik maupun konsep. Sebenarnya disini ada 4 divisi yaitu, Panjat Tebing, Caving, Arung jeram dan Hutan Gunung. Dari keempat divisi tersebut saya paling tertarik ama panjat tebing. Saya merasa nyaman di divisi ini. Awalnya saya mulai latihan dengan namanya bolderan. Dari sini saya mulai mengenal dengan teknik-teknik dasar panjat tebing. Kemudian saya mulai ikut Diklat Panjat Tebing, dan pada saat itu diklat dilakukan di tebing Parangdok Bantul Yogyakarta. Ini adalah sekilas tentang saya dan panjat tebing.

Dengan seiring jalannya waktu maka terbentuklah tim panjat dari angkatan saya yang berjumlah 4 orang. Untuk pemanjatan sendiri yang sering kami lakukan adalah pemanjatan artificial. Yaitu pemanjatan uantuk menambah ketinggian menggunakan alat.
Sebelum berangkat ke Tebing spikul, tidak banyak latihan yang kami lakukan. Kami hanya bermodalkan latihan-latihan terdahulu yang pernah kami lakukan. Kami hanya bermodalkan keyakinan dan semangat yang tinggi. Inilah yang membuat kami merasa yakin untuk menaklukkan tebing spikul. Berikut ini adalah derkripsi perjalanan kami.

Tim panjat yang terdiri dari 3 orang yaitu lala, ser2, dan sotar serta 2 orang official yaitu pedal dan kutil. Yang tadinya kami berencana akan berangkat hari senin (28/01/08) akhirnya ditunda pada hari selasa (29/01/08) karena adanya urusan akademik yang harus diselesaikan, tapi ini tidak menjadi masalah. Kami mulai berangkat dari posko Mapala Unisi pada pukul 21:56 WIB, setelah melakukan do’a kami langsung menuju stasiun lempuyangan dan sampai disana pukul 22:02 WIB, kami langsung naik kereta, karena kereta yang kami tuju akan segera berangkat.

Didalam kereta tidak banyak yang kami lakukan karena kereta yang kami naik lumayan penuh. Pada hari rabu (30/01/08) tepatnya pukul 01:48 WIB, kereta tiba di stasiun kertosono. Kami turun dan menuju ke loket, dan ternyata kereta selanjutnya masih lama kedatangannya sekitar jam setengah tiga. Karena masih lumayan lama, kami memanfaatkan waktu ini untuk istirahat dan makan. Tidak lama kemudian kereta yang kami tunggu datang pada pukul 03:56 dan kami langsung naik,trus kereta berangkat. Kereta yang kami naik kali ini lumayan sepi. Kereta tiba di Tulungagung pada pukul 05:00 WIB. Dan kami istirahat sejenak sambil menunggu agak terang.

Dan kami melanjutkan lagi dari stasiun menuju ke jalan raya yang biasa dilalui bis yang menuju ke arah kota Malang, karena kami akan menuju ke STAIN Tulungagung. Perjalanan dari stasiun ke halte sekitar 15 menit, kemudian kami naik bis dan menuju ke STAIN. kami tiba disana pada pukul 06:00 WIB.

Setiba disana kami menuju ke pos satpam dan menanyakan keberadaan kesekretariatan mapala STAIN yaitu Mapala Himalaya. Karena masih pagi, Himalaya masih sepi karena masih pada tidur. Tak lama kemudian keluar seorang dari Himalaya yang bernama lendu, dan kami mulai silaturahmi dan berbincang-bincang. Karena kondisi kami lumayan capek dan letih, kami dipersilahkan untuk masuk dan istirahat.

Sangking capeknya kami tudur pulas, dan bangun pada pukul 13.41WIB dan tidak lama kemudian turun hujan lumayan deras. Kami yang tadinya berencana untuk berangkat ke Trenggalek sore hari, terpaksa diundur besok pagi.

Hari kamis (31/01/08) tepatnya pukul 06:48 kami mulai belanja logistik untuk bekal kami selama pemanjatan nanti, yang direncanakan selama 6 hari pemanjatan. Dan pada pukul 08:30 WIB kami makan pagi dan packing logistik hasil belanjaan kami tadi. Pukul 09:17 kami mulai bergegas untuk berangkat ke Trenggalek. Setelah melakukan do’a kami langsung menuju ke trenggalek. Transportasi yang kami gunakan saat itu adalah mobil kampus STAIN dan kami sangat berterima kasih kepada mapala Himaya yang telah memfasilitasi kami.

Pada pukul 10:52 kami tiba di Watulimo-Trenggalek, tepatnya dirumah Pak Sunardi dengan alamat : Watuagung, Kec. Watulimo Kab. Trenggalek RT.10/RW.03. kami bersilaturahmi dan melakukan administrasi sampai pukul 11:20 WIB.

Setelah itu kami malanjutkan untuk menuju ke ground tebing spikul yang dulu namanya adalah gunung Jadah. Perjalanan dari rumah Pak Sunardi ke Ground sekitar 15 menit dengan kondisi jalan bebatuan dan agak menanjak. Setibanya disana kami istirahat sejenak, karena cukup melelahkan ditambah lagi dengan cuaca yang cukup panas (34º-37ºC). untuk air lumayan banyak dan tidak terlalu jauh dari flying camp. Kondisi ground saat itu merupakan perkebunan dengan tanaman singkong kelapa dan sedikt pinus.

Pada pukul 11:35 - 16:26 WIB kami mulai mendirikan tenda dan mencari air kemudian dilanjutkan dengan survey jalur. Kami mulai masak dan makan pada pukul 17:00 WIB dan evaluasi + briefing pada pukul 20:44 WIB. Dan setelah itu kami tidur pada pukul 22:30 WIB

Hari jumat (01/02/08) pada pukul 06:00 WIB kami sudah bangun dan mulai bersiap-siap untuk melakukan pemanjatan yaitu mulai dari masak, strieching, makan dan sebagainya sampai pukul 08:30 WIB. Selanjutnya langsung melakukan pemanjatan pertama, dan untuk pemanjatan pertama metode yang kami gunakan adalah metode Himalayan dengan pemanjatan semi artificial. Untuk hari pertama yang melakukan pemanjatan hanya dua orang yaitu sotar dan ser2. Pada pukul 09:45 WIB orang pertama sampai pitch 1 dan keduanya nyampe pitch 1 pada pukul 10:30 WIB. Untuk kondisi pitch 1 miring dan tidak terlalu lebar. Ketinggianya sekitar 45 m dan cuaca pada saat itu sangat panas sekitar 41º-44ºC. kemudian kami istirahat sebentar dan langsung melakukan pemanjatan. Pada pukul 13:58 WIB hujan turun dan pada saat itu orang partama kurang 5 m lagi sampai pitch 2, dan dikarenakan hujan turun lumayan deras akhirnya kami memutuskan untuk turun. Ketinggian pada saat itu sekitar 95 m yang sudah dicapai. Kami turun dan sampai di ground pada pukul 15:25 WIB, kemudian sampai flying camp pada pukul16:20 WIB (off).

Setelah hujan reda kami duduk diatas batu sambil berbincang-bincang dan mengamati jalur yang sudah dilalui, dan ternyata tidak sepeti yang dilihat. Dari kejauhan tebing terlihat tidak terlalu tinggi tapi tali yang kami gunakan yaitu tali 100 m hampir habis ketika akan sampai di pitch 2. Dan kami baru mencapai seperempat dari ketinggian tebing.

Pukul 20:30 WIB hujan turun lagi, kami mulai masak dan makan kemudian briefing pada pukul 21:25 WIB. Kami tidur pada pukul 22:50 WIB.

Sabtu (02/02/08) pada pukul 06:00 WIB kami sudah bangun dan mulai melakukan persiapan, ada yang masak dan menyiapkan alat untuk pemanjatan selanjutnya. Hujan semalam yang lumayan deras masih menyisakan basah ditebing, dan mau tidak mau kami menunggu sampai tebing agak kering. Untuk hari kedua ini pemanjatan dimulai agak siang dikarenakan tadi, masih menunggu tebing yang masih basah yaitu pukul 10:00 WIB. Kami mulai pemanjatan dari ground yaitu dengan metode jumaring. Kondisi saat itu sangat panas dan melelahkan. Setelah keduanya sampai pada pitch 1 kemudian lanjut lagi hingga sampai pada pitch 2.Untuk kondisi pitch 2 lumayan lebar tapi miring. Sehingga untuk tidur masih sedikit gantung posisinya. Dan untuk tempat masak hanya cukup untuk satu kompor.Kami tiba di pitch 2 pukul 11:50 dan hujan mulai turun lagi pada pukul 12:00, dan terpaksa kami berhenti di pitch 2. Pada saat kami berdua naik tadi, orang ketiga juga mulai naik dengan metode jumaring, dan kami saat itu menunggu kedatangannya. Pada pukul 16:00 WIB hujan mulai reda tapi masih rintik-rintik. Dan tidak lama kemudian orang ketiga sampai di pitch 2 pada pukul 18:00 WIB(off) dan kami bertiga flying camp di pitch 2. Pada pukul 20:20 WIB kami mulai evaluasi dan makan malam sampai pukul 22:00 dan kami istirahat.

Pada keesokan harinya yaitu hari minggu (03/02/08) pukul 06:00 WIB satu per satu dari kami mulai bangun dan kondisi saat itu tebing masih basah dan kami menunggu sampai tebing kering. Pada pukul 07:00 WIB kami mulai mempersiapkan semuanya untuk melanjutkan pemanjatan sambil menunggu tebing kering. Pada pukul 10:00 kami melanjutkan pemanjatan dan sampai di pitch 3 pada pukul 12:50WIB.dan pada saat itu juga hujan turun kemudian kami berhenti. Pada saat itu semua anggota tim mulai naik dan tepat pukul 16:00 WIB kami berempat sudah berada di pitch 3. Tidak lama kemudian kami berhenti operasi. Pada pukul 18:00 kami mulai masak, makan dan evaluasi + briefing. Dan kami istirahat pada pukul 22:00 WIB.

Senin (04/02/08) jam 05:58 kami sudah bangun dan pukul 07:00 kami sudah melakukan persiapan untuk pemanjatan. Untuk hari ini kami beruntung dikarenakan semalam hanya angin dan gerimis saja sehingga tebing tidak terlalu basah dan kami mulai pemanjatan pukul 08:00 WIB. Pada saat pertengahan perjalanan menuju pitch, tali habis dikarenakan tali yang lain masih digunakan untuk transfer barang. Tepat pukul 13:00 hujan turun lagi dan terpaksa leader turun lagi ke pitch 3. Dan kami berempat flyingcamp di pitch 3.

Keesokan harinya yaitu hari selasa (05/02/08) kami melanjutkan lagi pemanjatan dan untuk hari ini kami bangun jam jam 06:00 dan persiapan semuanya. Pemanjatan dimulai pada pukul 08:00 WIB dan sampai di pitch 4 pukul 09:05 lanjut lagi dan sampai di pitch 5 pukul 13:00. Dari pitch 5 ke top lumayan mengalami kesulitan dikarenakan kondisi jalur yang lumayan susah(over hang) dan pada pukul 15:00 leader sampai top, setelah itu baru dilanjutkan orang ketiga dan kedua. Yang melanjutkan sampai top hanya kami bertiga dikarenan kondisi flying camp di bawah tidak ada orang yang menunggu, sehingga terpaksa salah satu dari kami berempat ada yang turun dan menunggu di flying camp. Kami bertiga sampai ditop sekitar pukul 17:00 WIB dan Alhamdulillah untuk hari ini tidak turun hujan dan kami dapet beroperasi full time. Kami berhenti operasi pukul 17:00 WIB setelah semuanya sudah berada di top.

Dan diatas tidak banyak yang kami lakukan, kami hanya langsung masak, makan dan evaluasi + briefing.setelah itu kami ngobrol-ngobrol sejenak dan tidur.

Untuk hari ini yaitu hari rabu (06/02/08) kami bangun agak siang yaitu pukul 07:00 dikarenakan kondisi fisik yang sangat melelahkan. Setelah bangun kami langsung masak, makan dan melakukan persiapan untuk turun. Kami turun pukul 10:22 WIB dan sampai di di ground pada pukul 16:30. Dan untuk turun sendiri kami tidak banyak menemukan kesulitan dan juga pada saat itu juga tidak turun hujan.

Setelah itu kami langsung menuju flying camp dan kebetulan mobil jemputan kami sudah sampai. Kami langsung checklist alat dan berkemas-kemas semua barang kami. Pukul 18:02 kami langsung menuju rumah pak Sunardi dan pak Kamidi, dan kami berpamitan untuk pulang. Dari trenggalek pada saat itu pukul 19:02 WIB dan sampai di STAIN pukul 20:44 WIB. Setelah istirahat sejenak kami langsung bersih-bersih dan mandi.

Keesokan harinya yaitu hari kamis (07/02/08) kami melanjutkan perjalanan kami ke Surabaya yaitu ke Mapala Wanala yaitu di kampus UNAIR kampus B. Setalah kami berpamitan dan bedo’a kami langsung menuju ke stasiun pada pukul 16:00 WIB. Di stasiun kami menunggu kereta sangat lama, bahkan hampir 2 jam kami menunggu kereta. Dan kemudian kereta datang dan kami langsung naek dan menuju ke Surabaya.

Sekitar pukul 20:00 WIB kami sampai di Surabaya, dan dari stasiun kami langsung menuju ke kampus UNAIR dengan berjalan kaki. Ya sekitar 20 menit perjalanan dari stasiun menuju kampus UNAIR. Sesampainya disana kami bertemu rombongan tim Hutan Gunung yang mereka sudah sampai siang tadi, dan kami memang brencana untuk ketemu di UNAIR. Yah seperti biasa, kami istirahat sejenak, kemudian mencari makan dikarenakan perut kami yang sangat laper. Disana kebetulan mapala Wanala sedang ada acara yaitu diksar penerimaan anggota baru, tapi untuk berangkatnya mereka tanggal 10. Kami berencana disana sampai tanggal 8 dan balik ke jogja pada tanggal 9 yaitu hari sabtu.

Hari sabtu (09/02/08) tepatnya pukul 14:00 WIB kami setelah berpamitan langsung menuju ke stasiun Gubeng dan melanjutkan perjalanan kami ke jogja. Dan kai tiba di Jogja keesokan harinya pada pukul 05:00 WIB. Kami berangkat dari Surabaya pukul 17:00 dan sampai di jombang pukul 19:00. Disana kami Istirahat dan melanjutkannya lagi pada pukul 12:00 dan sampai di jogja keesokan paginya. Sekian dulu cerita dari tebing yang termasuk extreme di asian tenggara ini. Mudah-mudahan masih banyak lagi yang akan menelurkan cerita baru dari tebing spikul ini. Cukup sekian dan semoga bermanfaat bagi pembaca..
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