Avoiding The Infamous Self Unclipping Quickdraw

Sport and Trad climbers alike should be well aware of the need to avoid back clipping quickdraws. Just in case you've forgotten, here's a quick reminder. The basic concept is to try and keep the rope running along the spine of the carabiner (correct clip shown right) when moving left or right of the placement, so that during a fall the rope will not be in danger of landing across the gate. This becomes more of an issue with bent gate carabiners and climbs that wander around rather than being straight...

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Avoiding The Infamous Self Unclipping Quickdraw

Sport and Trad climbers alike should be well aware of the need to avoid back clipping quickdraws. Just in case you've forgotten, here's a quick reminder. The basic concept is to try and keep the rope running along the spine of the carabiner (correct clip shown right) when moving left or right of the placement, so that during a fall the rope will not be in danger of landing across the gate. This becomes more of an issue with bent gate carabiners and climbs that wander around rather than being straight...

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Cordelette For Equalising Anchors

You're leading the last pitch. It's been a long day and now the sun is setting. Topping out you glance around for potential belay anchors. The trad options aren't obvious. Ten minutes later you're still dicking around, shortening slings, shifting clove hitches, tying off portions of the climbing rope. It's a mess and the damn anchors still don't look equalised. What's more that comfy seat has a spike of rock that is threatening your future plans for fatherhood. No time to shift it now.... "On belay!" If...

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Equalising Anchors

Equalising anchors correctly reduces the potential load on each anchor by distributing the weight. This is a very useful tool, making two equalised anchors far superior too two anchors set in series. Two anchors that by themselves may not hold much of a fall, when combined correctly may well be stronger. However, when equalising anchors you should NOT spread them too far apart or the concept of equalisation will actually work against you rather than for you. The diagram below shows that the reliability...

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Hauling The Second Past The Crux

This section describes two methods the leader might employ to haul his/her second up past the crux or even up the entire pitch to the belay. This is an advanced topic and I strongly suggest you get someone experienced to show you these methods, in person, so they can verify your technique. I repeat, do not trust what you read here, I make no claim that it's accurate. (See full disclaimer). Assisted Hoist "Dude, I'm stuck on the crux!". Halfway up a multi-pitch climb the cry is heard. You're...

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Ascending The Rope

You've all seen the movie where the mountaineer is left hanging in the wind on the end of the rope, his partner unable to help. Our hero inevitably whips off his shoe laces, and uses them to ascend the rope. It makes great footage, but unless you're feeling like James Bond material, or you start using 6 or 7mm accessory cord as shoe laces, I suggest you use a more practical approach. There's probably dozens of ways to ascend a rope, but here's a few I can think of. Again, I make no claim the ...

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